How Porto's wine scene finally found its footing
Wine bars are opening at a fast rate here (and they're doing great things)
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Some phrases give me the ick, and one of them is when a movement is called “the new wave of X.”
The new wave of music. The new wave of restaurants. And yes, the new wave of wine bars.
But try as I might, I can’t think of a better phrase to explain what has happened to Porto’s wine scene in the last few years. Maybe an explosion? Same ick, but the sentiment works.
The wine scene here is hopping.
Porto’s development as a city is in an interesting space. Its place on the global stage is relatively new. A local friend once told me that even 15 years ago, there were parts of the Baixa — the old town — you wouldn’t venture into at night. Not so much the case nowadays (not at all in fact).
Porto is still not without its issues. There is a housing crisis, yet many houses are abandoned. The one behind my house has a full-blown tree growing out of a gutter three storeys up. I’m still not sure how.
This is also a working city. Traditional tascas and snack bars serve big portions at affordable prices, all washed down with Superbock beer or cheap local wine.
Food and drink designed to satiate, not pontificate.
The Portuguese Snack Bar Is Where To Find The Fun
I don’t take snack bars for granted. I’m from the UK where third spaces — places outside the home or work that garner community for all — have been systematically dismantled to make room for more Starbucks chains or Wetherspoons pubs. But here in Portugal, it’s different. The snack bar is the working horse of the neighbourhood. The quintessential third space accessible to anyone with a handful of Euros in their pocket.
Things have been a little slower to develop in Porto than some of its second-city counterparts like Barcelona or Milan. But they are developing. And as this city evolves, its wine scene evolves too.
From a wine point of view, I’m not upset with that. Porto has at least four wine regions within an hour and a half’s drive of its city limits. Countless winemakers are doing extraordinary things with grapes across the country and have been doing so for decades. Yet for a long time, Porto was drowning in bulk-made wines from the Douro valley or spritzy off-dry whites from Vinho Verde.
These wines have their place. But they do not showcase what Portugal is truly capable of. Wines that deserve to be drunk in their local city.
And you now can, thanks to the — ahem — new wave of Porto wine bars.
And some originals that paved the way.
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The originals
Because you can’t have a new wave without the old.
Prova (opened 2014)
Owner Diogo did an extraordinary thing by opening a wine bar like Prova back in 2014. For many years, he was the only good place for a glass in the city. It’s not an exaggeration to say he paved the way for everything that came next.
Prova is the sort of place where time disappears. You go in for a glass at 9pm and before you know it, it’s 2am. It’s always been a wine trade hangout — you’ll find local winemakers, distributors, and sommeliers in here most nights of the week — and with good reason. It’s got some of the best Portuguese wineries on its list as well as notable wines from nearby Galicia and further afield.
Diogo is also a sensible man because he is a Champagne and Sherry fan, so if that’s your thing (and if not, why not), this is the place to drink both.
A Cave do Bon Vivant (opened 2020)
French-born Stan and Clemence brought some Paris natural wine bar energy to Porto when they opened A Cave do Bon Vivant. Whilst you’ll naturally find Portuguese wine here, you’ll also find great examples from Italy, Spain, France and Georgia.
You’ll also find the best amêijoas à Bulhão Pato (a famous Portuguese dish of clams, white wine and herbs) I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating.
Follow A Cave do Bon Vivant on Instagram
Cave Bombarda (opened 2021)
I have a soft spot for Cave Bombarda because it was the first wine joint I visited back in 2021, when my husband and I were considering Porto as our new home.
It also reminds me of my own wine store and bar, thanks to its enoteca model — buy to take away or drink in with a small corkage fee. And if you visit on a Saturday afternoon, it’ll feel like half of Porto is packed into the small bar and big terrace.
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The new kids
Genuíno (Opened 2022)
I don’t know how to explain how much I love Genuíno. Celebratory night? Genuíno. Friends visiting? Genuíno. Random Tuesday? Genuíno.
This is a restaurant-come-bar, so you’ll have an even better time if you come hungry because the small plates are some of the best in town. Chef Gabriela works from a tiny hole-in-the-wall kitchen where she slings out dishes like pork cheek and mushroom croquetas and local fish crudo.
Her husband Gustavo works front of house with a long, extensive wine list of wines on the natural side of things. Sit at the bar, order a bottle and a few plates and watch hours disappear.
Gito (opened 2023)
The rule is that if you start at Genuíno, Gito must follow. Gito is run by Bruno and means “tiny” in his Brazilian hometown slang.
It is small, but it is also mighty. Bruno never sits still and is always looking to do better, which means his wine list is always changing (the mark of an excellent bar in my book).
Being just a 10-minute walk from my house, Gito is my local and my go-to spot. A cliché perhaps but it’s a home away from home.
Apothek (opened 2023)
Apothek is a little less well-known in the city, but owner Pedro deserves recognition because his wine taste is spot on. The list is huge and diverse, just like Pedro’s wine knowledge.
He’s the sort of guy who will spend hours talking wine if you want — or leave you to it if you prefer — and is perceptive enough to know which one to employ. The mark of a natural hospitality pro.
Arco Das Verdades (opened 2023)
I don’t think there is a wine bar in town with a better view than Arco Das Verdades, set as it is on the side of the hill facing the famous bridge, the Dom Luis I.
Owners Tatiana and Alexey have gone niche. Not only do they only sell Portuguese wine, they predominantly sell Northern Portuguese wine. That means famous regions like the Douro Valley and Vinho Verde, but also lesser-known ones like Dão, Bairrada and Tras os Montes.
And that view…you can’t beat it.
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Funq (opened 2024)
Hannah and Peter opened Funq just a few months ago, and it’s already established itself as a vibe.
Their tagline is “Sip Globally, Enjoy Locally” so expect wine from all over the world, not just Portugal. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, the mark of a thriving wine scene is when it has the confidence to list its domestic wines against international examples. No navel-gazing, just good wine, wherever it’s from.
Vintu (opened 2024)
Vintu is also unafraid of listing international wines against domestic ones, and they do it very well indeed. They are also the only wine bar I can think of here with a 100% women-led team. Knowing how difficult it can be for women to break into — and succeed — in wine, it’s always great to find women front and centre.
The Cork (opened 2025)
The Cork may only be a few months old, but it is already smashing out great wines and, importantly, great petiscos (Portuguese snacks). Behind the bar, you’ll find owner Larissa and also Pedro, both of whom are natural-born hospitality folk.
The Cork is on Rua da Almada, which also happens to be the home of Funq, so you can make a wine crawl out of it.
If you haven’t been to a producer tasting/class at theLAB in Porto, I highly recommend. Ironically I met Hannah and Peter from Funq there! I’m happy to see their spot being recognized!
Excellent guide! Take me back to Porto please..