Hello Sauciers! Today I’ve got a practical guide for anyone about how to buy wine that doesn’t break the bank in some of the most expensive wine regions in the world — or what I call the 4 big-budget Bs. Barolo, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Brunello di Montalcino.
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Rumour has it, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino (the four big-budget Bs) are too expensive for the likes of me and you to buy anymore.
That is partly true. I’m old enough to say “I remember a time when decent Barolo was under $30” whereas good Barolo from a good producer today could set you back hundreds of dollars or more.
The problem is, I like wines from these regions. They became expensive and sought after for a reason. They’re good. Sometimes the best you’ll ever get.
So I, along with the rest of the professional wine nerd community, have to find a way to drink wines from the four big-budget Bs — and other pricey regions — without resorting to selling the sofa.
There are ways. Ways I employed in my wine store and bar so I could sell my price-sensitive customers great wine from great regions. Ways I use to stock up my personal wine rack.
Ways I’m going to share with you today.
Rule numero uno: buy cheaper sub-regions from good producers
Not expensive names from bad producers.
Barolo is a perfect example of this.
Good Barolo from a good producer is one of life’s greatest pleasures. It will make your brain’s pleasure centres light up like a funfair.
Do you know what is terrible? Cheap Barolo from a bad producer.
Barolo is expensive to produce and comes with a caché other wines can only dream of. So if you find a “cheap” Barolo (we’re talking under $30), there be dragons, my friends.
Except, people still buy it because they want the Barolo name.
Do this instead. Find a good Barolo producer and buy their cheaper wines made with the same grape, Nebbiolo.
For instance, the Barolo by Oddero — one of my favourite producers — goes for $60. But their Langhe Nebbiolo is more like $20.
No, it won’t be as complex as their Barolo, but it will be lightyears ahead of most Barolo made by lesser producers.
The same goes for Burgundy. Aubert de Villaine — winemaker of Domaine de la Romanee Conti — makes a Chardonnay worth around $10k.
He also makes a white from the variety Aligoté that you can pick up for $30.
They are not the same. They are not even the same variety.
But I know from personal experience that his Aligoté is better than hundreds of other Burgundian Chardonnays at the same price. Especially those with fancy names like Chassagne-Montrachet.
If you buy the producer — not the fancy region — suddenly a whole world of excellent wine becomes available to you.
And you can drink Burgundy without having to sell a kidney.
My favourite cheap(er) wines by amazing producers:
Le Ragnaie, Brunello di Montalcino, Italy. Try their entry-level Troncone.
Sesti, Brunello di Montalcino. Their Monteleccio and Grangiovese wines are must-buys.
Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage, France. The most prestigious name in this expensive region also makes excellent but much more affordable wines under his J.L Chave Selections label.
Domaine Rougeot, Meursault, Burgundy. Try their Bourgogne Blanc.
Most decent Barolo producers. Try their Langhe Nebbiolos. Favourite wineries include Oddero, Giacomo Fenocchio, Borgogno, and Elio Grasso.