Wine isn't just a drink, it's a culture

A generous, geeky, nature-driven culture that made me who I am today

Earlier this week, I argued that Trump’s tariffs could unravel the very soul of wine. The very thing that — for those of us deep in the thick of it — it represents.

This essay speaks to that part of wine. The cultural bit. The romantic bit. The bit some people roll their eyes at but, I can tell you from years of experience, fucking sells the bottles.

People want the stories. These are some of those stories.

This is quite a personal essay so it’s going behind the paywall for my paid subscriber cohort. Join the gang for $5 a month or $50 a year and help support independent food and drink writing (and keep my rent paid and lights on):

Image courtesy of author. Vineyards in Rioja

It’s 5.02pm. The wine bar opened at 5. We’re here early because it’s the bar’s second birthday. Over those years the owner has become a firm friend. The sort of friend you need when you live abroad and friends aren’t just a nice-to-have.

They’re essential.